Sweet homecoming to my dreamland – Bangladesh

Sweet homecoming to my dreamland – Bangladesh

By Captain Forkanul Quader (6N) 18 November 2021

(My story below is a factual one. It is in snap shots. I was not able to provide details due to paucity of time. I hope to share more in future)

Snapshot 1

On 30^th November 1971, I went to visit Iqbal Bhai (Mohammad Iqbal – a Marine Academy senior & fellow Chittagonian) to exchange views on rising political tension. Situation was very tense in Karachi when I visited Iqbal Bhai one day before bombing started. He was a fellow Bangali officer on a Baksh Line ship. We both talked and decided to see Capt. Nurul Haque (Pakistan Navy) at his resident in Nazemabad. He and his wife were known as common `Dula Bhai & Apa’ to all Bangladeshi seafaring officers. After a fabulous, mouth-watering dinner we sat down with Dula Bhai and raised the current issue. Almost in whispering tone he told us that he was under house confinement. He told us, it’s not safe anymore for Bengalis and advised us to desert the Pakistani ship wherever we can. They fondly wished us good luck as we left.

It was early December 1971 when all-out war broke out between Pakistan (mainly West) and India as East Pakistan decided to break away. Martial Law was declared in East Pakistan as Bengalis took up arms to fight for their freedom. I was transferred from passenger ship `Safina-e-Arab’ to a cargo ship – `Safina-e- Haider’ where I joined as 3^rd Officer. She was loading some cargo at a berth in Karachi. It was Capt Fahim’s first command on Safina-e-Haider after his promotion. He was scared to death about the war-like situation in Karachi. We changed the name of the ship three times to camouflage as foreign ship as he felt a false sense of security. 

Snapshot 2

On 1^st December Capt Fahim called me to his room. He assured me with comfort that he will protect me no matter what. He then stated that I & other East Pakistani crew members are to remain on board and not allowed to go out, during the ship’s stay at Karachi.

On 3^rd December to be precise Indian air force planes bombed Karachi. Next day harbour authority sent our vessel out to anchorage after suddenly halting all loading operations. Our ship was instructed to wait for re-entering. Harbour Authority instructed ships at anchorage to stay on alert in total darkness. Something unexpected happed that night as we kept strict vigil under darkness. It was close to mid-night as I was finishing my 4 hour watch we noticed a slow moving light coming out of the sea. It approached towards a ship that had switched on few lights. As it passed over it the ship suddenly it caught fire. The ship contacted port as crew brought the fire under control. Capt Fahim who was on the bridge (a navigational central area on uppermost deck) as I concluded that this was likely to have been a missile/rocket attack by Indian submarine.  Capt Fahim looked shaken as he discussed the situation with the Chief Mate and Chief Engineer. All plans for re-entering to lift remaining cargo was abandoned. Next morning, we got permission from port to sail out to our next port – Mombasa in Kenya.  The voyage thereafter was anything but smooth sailing. We were sailing with a captain who was terrified as the fear of the war phobia engulfed him. We zigzagged through Gulf of Aden as Captain Fahim thought the Indian Navy will come after us. We were sailing all over to escape the non-existent and invisible enemy. We finally arrived at Mombasa and saw that another of our company ship that sailed out 2 days after us was already in the harbour.

In Mombasa, during a shore leave period I went over to a National Shipping Corporation Ship (Pakistani) to see one of my senior – Habibullah bhai (fellow Chittagonian). He received me cordially. We had tea together. He quietly advised me to desert ship wherever possible. After 2 days we sailed out heading for US East Coast. According to the Captain, our destination was New York.

Snapshot 3

We had an eventful voyage with Capt Fahim in his first command. He had been so nervous. After leaving Mombasa we zig-zagged and at one stage headed due East as he thought we were in shallow water. After my 8 pm to midnight watch, I often stayed back longer on the conning bridge before heading to my cabin. I would sneak into the radio room to listen to BBC world service once in a while.  I knew time was nearing when my beloved East Pakistan would emerge as an independent nation. We round the Cape as we entered South Atlantic Ocean. It was flat calm. I would often gaze beyond the horizon – thinking about my parents, brothers and sisters; I may never see them again. I lost all contact since early December. Sadness would well up inside. On our way to USA I became more certain that I would jump ship in New York, our original destination. After leaving Trinidad (West Indies) we headed for Galveston. Capt Fahim, however spread the message that our final US destination will be New York, to lift some cargo. It was around new year time that we arrived at Galveston. Captain Fahim would often call me to his cabin and reassure me that nothing will happen and he will always take care of me. We finally sailed out of Galveston and headed for New Orleans instead of New York. It suddenly dawned on me that we are never going to New York where I could safely desert ship and meet a friend who settled there. By then, I had made up my mind to leave the ship at the first available opportunity.

Snapshot 4

New Orleans – One evening after my day watch, I got ready for shore leave. I left the ship and headed for the central train station. I earlier spoke to my friend in New York who assured me of giving shelter. I only had $65 US dollar, saved from my salary advance. I went to ticket counter and queried about fare to New York. I was told it will be $63.50. I was taken aback by that as I’ll have little left to survive for long journey with unknown future. I went to the Greyhound bus stop and the fare was the same. I thought hard and fast and decided to return to the temporary safety of my ship. The ship eventually sailed out of New Orleans bound for Mombasa and Aqaba in Jordan. I knew that will be a do or die decision at Mombasa. We knew by then that our motherland gained independence. Those of us from East Pakistan were tensed with overwhelming emotion.  

Snapshot 5

On the return passage, most Bengali crew members confided in me and expressed their desire to jump ship at Mombasa. In my service with Pakistani ships I used to see Bengali crew being discriminated by Pakistani officers and crew. As being the only officer from East Pakistan, most Bengali crew members looked up to me to save them from being imprisoned in Pakistan. Capt Fahim often invited me in his lounge and assured me about my safety. Out of ten East Pakistani (Bangladeshi) crew members, Bosun (Serang) politely declined to engage with us as he left behind his wife and children in Karachi. Our ship was scheduled to stay in Mombasa for few days to take bunker (oil and water) as well as lift some cargo for Karachi. There was a Bank Line cargo ship on a berth nearby where some East Pakistani crew served. On my first day, I took my discharge book from radio officer on the pretext that I may need it at the port gate. I went straight to Indian High Commission office. I met the Deputy High (DHC) Commissioner and explained our plight. I explained that, I and nine other crew members would like to seek asylum and wanted to leave the ship. He understood our plea. He advised that we had to desert ship quietly as Kenyan Government did not recognise Bangladesh. If Kenyan police were to find out they would put us back on board. I was told to complete paperwork formalities first i.e. two forms each. One for seeking asylum and another to declare oath of allegiance towards Bangladesh.  I had to fill in 18 forms on behalf of all. Once all done DHC made me comfortable in saying that he will make arrangement for us to stay at common dormitory at local Sikh temple. We will be given two meals a day for the first few days and thereafter we have raise money to fund for our meals. Without much thought, we all agreed to simply leave the Pakistani ship. He gave the address of a Sikh Temple and told me to leave ship with all my men next day. He said he informed the Temple authorities about our arrival.

I felt a strong sense of belonging and attachment to my motherland – now a free country.  I came back and met each Bengali crew to explain that we needed to leave ship next day without raising any suspicion. I explained the reason and told each person clearly that they should follow me at their own will and there was no compulsion.

Snapshot 6

We carefully planned our escape as we did not want to raise suspicion. I gave careful instruction to my collaborators to leave ship when they are allowed shore leave one by one. The duty watchman for the evening was an elderly easy-going helmsman. I (and others) repeatedly told him to stay on board until all nine Bangladeshis left the ship. I instructed him to quietly leave ship at night once all Bangladeshis escaped and once captain and others returned as there was no night work going on. I thought that would be safest way to escape. But it was not to be.     

Next day I completed my day watch and handed my watch over to my colleague (a senior from my Academy) 2^nd officer Mabud Siddiqi. As usual he cracked jokes and said enjoy the shore leave. I left ship single handed and took nothing with me. I had study books for my exams, photos, lots of clothing and gifts bought for family and many other memorabilia. I had a last look and left.

I headed straight for the dormitory at Sikh Temple. I waited for others. One by one all Bangladeshi crew arrived. Suddenly at about 5:30 pm the duty watchman showed up. The person we warned not to leave the ship until captain and others returned. All in all, eight crew members managed to escape the ship. We knew it was a blunder.  Later on we came to know from Bank Line crew that one engine room oiler was stopped from escaping. Captain and Chief officer were alerted as they did not find the watchman.

My ordeal had just begun. We all stayed in a hall with bunks around. Few crew started murmuring that they could have brought all their belongings and pay. They kept saying that it would have been possible to leave ship with accrued wages and all belonging. In an anger I told all of them that the ship was still in Mombasa and anyone of them can re-join the ship. Mentally I was on the verge of breaking point. I used to wake up at night and cry on my own – in anger and anguish. Almost every other day I had to see the DHC to exchange updates. He would organise visits to temples and organisations for me to speak about our ordeal and to raise money for our food. At the same time, I would go out in the main commercial street going from one shipping agency to the other – looking for a job on board a foreign ship. My only pair of shoes was wearing fast at the bottom. I was mentally and physically draining out. During breakfast I met two South Indian bank officers who rented rooms there. They were on an official tour. During my stay, they became my friends for life.  My two newly found Madrasi friends helped me out tremendously. They bought a shirt, shaving kit and a small bag for me. On few evenings they took me out with them when they visited a local Sikh friend. I would then get a treat. At the end of 2^nd week DHC informed me that Indian passenger ship `State of Haryana’ was scheduled to visit Mombasa and he will put us on board on a journey to Bombay (Mumbai). We stayed at temple site for 21 days. 

Snap shot 7

Finally, we were put board `State of Haryana’ on a journey to Mumbai in India. The passenger ship was owned by the Shipping Corp of India. I was introduced to Capt Nazareth who was in command. Capt Nazareth welcomed me and introduced me to Chief Officer and other officers. He was one of finest seafaring captain I have ever met. He said I could visit ship’s bridge whenever I wanted to (except during berthing/unberthing). He also told me that he will speak to Capt Kohli, Managing Director of Shipping Corp of India to see if I could be employed there. I was given an officer status there. I faced few awkward moments on-board. It was quite embarrassing to find out that one of my younger crew member (steward) has crossed the behavioural limit with a young lady passenger. It was brought to my notice and I felt quite ashamed. Captain also organised a social function for us on an evening where I had to sing a Bengali song. We had a good laugh about that.   

We arrived in Mumbai after a week at sea where I could observe the berthing from bridge. It was wonderful to note that the Captain gave the responsibility to the Chief Officer to berth the vessel while he stayed at his cabin. He wanted to train the mate for his command. It was an enlightening experience for me. As soon as we arrived in Mumbai, we were told to stay on board for immigration and police interrogation. We all were individually interrogated by officers from immigration, intelligence and police department. Same questions were repeated again and again. It was an exhausting session. It was quite sad for me to leave the temporary safety under captain’s personal care. His final guidance was that I should report back to Bangladesh Shipping Authorities to seek employment. He said he had a long conversation with Capt Kohli. He was sorry that he could not help as the matter was to be discussed between our two Governments.  I said I was thankful to him for such wonderful hospitality. Finally, we were handed over to ships agent to take us to train station. The agent gave me the address of the Bangladesh Embassy in Calcutta and directed us to go there.

Snapshot 8

We all were taken to central station in a van and put on a train bound for Calcutta (Kolkata) via Nagpur. We were on our own and I had very little money with me. I felt a cold freight as the chill went through me. I was so thrilled and overjoyed that we were finally home bound. We were put in a 3^rd class compartment with poorer folks travelling with their bundles of clothing and food. I stopped eating and drinking, fearing that I’ll have nothing left for onward journey. At Nagpur our train stopped for long. I went to the platform and drank water from a street water tap to subside the hunger. That was clean and tasted so good. It took 2 nights and a day to reach Hawra in Kolkata. At Calcutta, we asked the station master for direction and started walking towards the embassy. It was a long journey by foot. Some of our crew members had left to see relatives and assured me that they will meet us at the embassy. We walked for over two hours and reached the embassy. It was evening by the time we reached the embassy. It was dark and no one was to be found inside. I was tired, hungry and disappointed. I told others to wait while I went around the side and rear. There was some light in the window of a lower floor room. I started knocking on that. After a while one official answered to my frantic knocks and calls. He opened the window and I told him that we came to the Embassy to seek help and we deserted ship in Kenya. He said the embassy was closed and we should come back in the morning. I said we have nowhere to go and no money either. He gave me a mouthful – saying that seafarers like us are loaded with dollars and simply making up the stories of being broke. I said I will not leave until a senior person arrived to resolve this stalemate. He then phoned the consular officer on call and informed him about us. We were told to wait. A Consular officer arrived after 15 to 20 minutes and I explained the entire ordeal to him. He understood the gravity of situation and gave us some bed sheets and pillows to sleep on the veranda floor. I was very tired. I told my crew to just rest for the night and we will see what happens in the morning. I got up early. I will never forget the day as I opened my eyes to the colour of new flag of my own country Bangladesh.  It was as if I was seeing my mother. Others joined us in the morning. Thereafter, we were treated well by the embassy staff. We were then taken to a local hotel to stay for the night before flying out to Dhaka. I almost cried with joy as I saw the progress. I could almost smell the air of free Bangladesh. We had breakfast next morning in the hotel and then a hired van took us to Calcutta airport. We finally boarded a Bangladesh run flight to Dhaka. Once I got off the flight, I became emotional with excitement. With tears rolling down my cheeks I went down to my knees did sezda to say thanks to Almighty Allah for bringing me and others back safely. It was time to say good bye to my crew who became friends. They were asking me to take them to Chittagong shipping office for re-issuing their documents. I said I had to leave to meet my niece and then to go home to be re-united with my parents. We parted with hugs. It was sweet home coming for me. The story of re-uniting with my parents will be for another time….